What Makes a Great Photo?
08 January 2024
In the early stages of my career, I thought that having more lenses
would improve my photography. I was obsessed with having all the
latest gear, and I was spending hours upon hours on the internet
researching and viewing samples of photos that other photographers had
taken with whichever gear I was coveting at the time. Then I read an
article about how that is the typical behaviour of new photographers,
and they get too bogged down on the equipment. The next stage in the
lifetime of a photography career is to pay more attention to what, how
and at whom you’re aiming your camera in the first place.
After being a full-time photographer for over a decade, I can
confidently assert that a great photo comprises the moment, the light
and the composition. Not the camera, not whether you’re shooting with
a fixed lens or a zoom, or a full frame body or a crop sensor, or
whether it’s a mirrorless body or an SLR. Yes, you need
professional-grade equipment if you’re charging professional rates,
but there are many options to choose from without believing the latest
marketing hype. I’ll repeat what I just said because it’s essential to
know this if you’re new to photography. A great image consists of
three things: the moment, the light and the composition.

Shooting weddings gets you accustomed to looking for moments. You
become an eagle-eyed, fly-on-the-wall super-human sniper with
razor-sharp reflexes, ready to click in a split second. In my
experience, which is about 300 weddings, most brides said they wanted
a mixture of natural photos and a few traditional ones. So as the
photographer, you need to be able to capture all those natural
moments. A father’s tear when seeing his daughter in her wedding dress
for the first time is a priceless moment, as is the shot of a
sportsperson winning a race or a politician reading his speech who
only looks up from his paper for a split second. If you capture the
moments and the smaller ones between the main moments, you’re on your
way to success.
When I say light, I mean two things. First is the photographer’s
ability to operate their camera efficiently to get a properly exposed
photo, regardless of the ambient lighting conditions. A quick pause
for reflection has me thinking about times when I’ve had to produce
outstanding quality photos from inside caves and underground areas to
ridiculous weather that involved thunderstorms. Learn your camera
buttons and controls like the back of your hand, take charge of it and
don’t be afraid. Shoot in manual mode. Learn about depth-of-field,
shutter speed and ISO. Operate it fluidly and swiftly to a point where
you’re confident in any situation.
The second thing I mean is the actual ambient light. Don’t shoot
portraits outdoors at midday in the blazing sun, you’ll get harsh
shadows, and your subject will be squinting into the light.
Photographers call the hour before sunset and the hour after sunrise
‘happy hour’ because that is the best light for outdoor photography.
If you’ve been told not to shoot into the direction of the sun, forget
that advice immediately. That’s what photographers in the olden days
of analogue film used to do to get evenly lit exposures. A properly
exposed backlit portrait at sunset is number one.
Being able to aim your camera and frame your shot so that it results
in a pleasing image becomes second nature with time and experience. An
excellent place to start is with the rule of thirds. Place your
horizons on the upper or lower third of your shot and place your
subject in the right or left third. If you’re shooting a moving
subject, place them so they have space to move into. For example, if
you’re shooting a runner moving from left to right, put them in the
left third of the frame. Look for leading lines, vanishing points and
framing possibilities. Lie on the ground or climb a tree. Get up or
get down or left or right. Include foreground or background elements,
but not if it feels cluttered. Always shoot portraits at your
subject’s eye level. Shooting a person from an elevated point of view
will diminish their stature. Similarly, shooting someone from below
elevates their stature. Try not to chop off people’s hands or feet. If
a subject’s head is at an angle and one of their eyes is closer to the
camera, always focus on the eye closest to you, or the photo will just
look weird. Lastly, don’t shoot portraits with a wide-angle lens. Your
best bet is an 85mm fixed focal length lens with an aperture of f2.8
or less.
If you remember these three principles, you’ll be well on your way to
shooting great photos to help you get more clients and earn more money
as a professional photographer.